The story of a group of Poms, Aussies and Swedes who succumb to the charms of two-wheeled travel in Cambodia – the land of temples, tuk-tuks and incredible trails!

We are drenched. We are filthy. We are exhausted. But the grins on the faces at the roadside café are wider than the vast dirt road we have just left. It’s only day three of our adventure in Cambodia and we are completely hooked on this beautiful country. From the life affirming joy of flat tracking the sweeping curves of the plantation highways to the technical trails through the dense jungle, the riding here has been truly epic. We’ve hauled bikes out of deep mud, crossed rivers too treacherous to walk through and experienced the warmest hospitality a traveller could ever hope for.
Before deciding to go riding in Cambodia, my knowledge of the country was almost non-existent. As a teenager I’d bought the Dead Kennedy’s single, but I knew nothing about the country or the horror to which the dark lyrics referred. Between 1975 and 1979 over two million people were killed by the brutal Khmer Rouge regime. With such appalling massacre within recent history, it’s astounding that Cambodia has re-emerged as a vibrant, youthful and joyful nation.

But that’s the impression you get as you arrive at Phnom Penh airport. I meet up with Ride Expeditions tuk-tuk driver and once on the road and away from the calm of the airport, the traffic is frenetic and unbelievable. Hundreds of scooters, trucks, cyclists, pedestrians and livestock compete for space on either side of the road, regardless of which direction they are travelling, I’m relieved to arrive at the hotel unscathed.

Markets & Massacres

The following day, I catch up with my fellow travellers on the trip. Aussies Aaron, Adam, Andrew, Brenton, Clint and Matt have been out the night before and are suffering, but nonetheless we hop into tuk-tuks and head out into the busy city. Among the stops we make, the Killing Fields memorial is truly chilling – a somber and deeply disturbing place where thousands were slaughtered while the world pretended nothing was happening.
The evening passes in the more far more light-heated setting of an Irish bar where the ribs are good and the beer is flowing.

With another day in the city, I go for a wander around Phnom Penh in the morning, taking in mix of exquisite temples and chaotic shops that spill onto the gridlocked streets. The markets are an assault on the senses, especially in the meat sections where slabs of flesh and live animals swing and gasp in the oppressive heat. In the afternoon, Toby, the organizer, has laid on a cruise on the Mekong river, and It’s time to meet the final three on the trip, Swedes Magnus and Lars and fellow Brit Doug, before we head to a riverside restaurant.

THE ADVENTURE BEGINS

Bright and early the next day, the bikes are outside the hotel. There’s a selection of Kawasaki KLX300s, KTM 450EXCs and the support team’s XR250s. We leave in convoy through the hectic morning traffic and fleets of step-through scooters to head for the first river crossing of the trip. Once across, it’s a short stretch of blacktop through the bustling villages before we turn onto the trails that follow the Mekong. Our progress is short-lived as we’ve had our first puncture, but once the support guys fix it we follow a fantastic series of tracks that border the river and cut into the agricultural land and forests that follow the water.
The boys are getting the hang of the bikes, with a split between the ‘point and squirt’ approach of the Perth lads, to the feet-up style of the Europeans. We take an early lunch at the roadside, where a meal of sweet and sour pork arrives within seconds of our arrival. With the bikes and the riders refueled, we set off north again, following the river through the stunning scenery. Dodging chickens, ducks and an endless array of dogs, a series of concrete tracks takes us through tiny villages and two wedding celebrations as we head on to a small ferry. The boat takes us to an island in the river, which we cross in a blur of epic trails and smiles before we hit the far side of the island and another packed ferry to our overnight stop in Kampong Cham.

By 8am we are out on the roads, cutting through the mad traffic with a single-minded focus – the only approach that works. The road yet again follows the Mekong as we zip past the locals on the omnipresent scooters. After a few kilometers, we turn off and head up to a rambling temple complex. Stopping for a drink by an intricately carved shrine, we take in the vista of the river plain and the ancient buildings that surround us. Well, most of us do. The silence is broken by Magnus violently vomiting over the side of the temple walls…
Heading on, it’s a mix of trail and road before the lunch stop. All around us, there are vast plantations of bananas, rubber, cashew nut and cassava trees. With open trails ahead, we’re all hanging the bikes out – Matt reveals his ‘all or nothing’ riding style, which is both effective and disastrous in equal measure. The best section of the day is a long stretch of sandy tracks between overhanging hedges – it’s like a trailriding video game and we are all pinned and carving the berms like off-road legends, ducking and weaving to avoid annoyingly frequent cattle on the track.

Another chugging ferry takes us across the river to complete the end of the day in Snoul. The truck has been delayed, so we eat dinner in our riding kit before the boys arrive. After the meal and a change of clothes, I join the Aussies for a beer from a roadside bar and watch the stars.
Leaving early, we soon turn onto a narrow trail known as the King’s Highway. The route has everything – deep gravel, mud, sand, roots, hard-pack and rock. As we slice through the undergrowth, trying to avoid the mud, the trails just get better. At one point we are travelling through neck-high bamboo, so all you can see is a trail of helmets moving through the undergrowth.The trails open up and for the next hour and a half we are pinning it through the landscape. When we eventually reach the road for iced coffee and cokes, the red mud is everywhere and we are drenched in sweat, but it makes not one jot of difference. This is dirt bike heaven.

FROM HIGHSIDE TO INFINITY

The accommodation tonight is stunning – huts on stilts in the grounds of a nature resort in Sen Moromon. We dine in the clubhouse and spend time chatting to fellow travellers. As I head for a well-earned sleep, the Aussies are busy Tasering each other – boys will be boys!
The following morning, we quickly hit the clay trails. Climbing the first hill, my back wheel kicks out and spectacularly highsides me six feet into the air. Luckily I land away from the bike, but in the process I’ve whacked by legs on the bars and I take a few moments to recover. The entire group is having difficulties as we cope with battle rocks, gullies, off-cambers, massive sinkholes and streams bisecting the trail. Matt too has had a big off, his fall only cushioned by his rucksack full of potato snacks. He needs to stop because he has a ‘bad stomach,’ so disappears into the undergrowth for some private time. “It’s a bit like pickles,” he announces to the group on his return.

The trail takes us through more forest and deep river crossings and onto a long and muddy road. The ruts are endless and the grip non-existent. We crab, slip and paddle our bikes slowly forward and by the time we eventually see the road, we are all relieved.
After lunch we leave the road and turn onto fast and sweeping trails through plantations that take us into the bustling town of Banlung and the Ratanakiri resort – complete with luxury lodges, cold beer and an infinity pool to ease away the day. With our kit ditched, it’s straight into the water and on to the bar as the next day is a rest day.
And rest we do, as the whole group spends the next morning by the pool. In the afternoon we join the locals at an idyllic volcanic lake at Yeak Loam for more swimming in the cool azure water. It’s a beautifully chilled day.

DOLPHINS & TEMPLES

After the technical trails of previous days, the next day’s riding is both fast and furious, as we follow long dirt roads, tracking the Mekong River north and towards the Laos border. In the afternoon we stop at a riverside village and take a boat to see the rare Irrawadee dolphins. There are only five in this stretch of the river and less than 300 in the entire Mekong, so we are lucky to see them at all.
A few kilometers upstream from the dolphins, the rapids are immense and we stop for the obligatory selfies. The humidity is really high now so it’s a restless night in a guesthouse, and I’m glad to get up and on the bike. More sweeping dirt roads start the day for a good 30km before we turn into hardcore jungle trails that test our skills once again.

As the trail gets wetter and harder, we are having difficulties and with another two kilometres of axle-deep mud to negotiate, we escape across a rice field to reach a better trail. We’re all so hot and knackered that at the next river crossing, we collapse into the water. As we cool off, a chirpy local balancing a sack of cement on the back of his Honda Cub heads for the trail we’ve just escaped. Go figure…
The morning brings torrential rain and none of us are rushing to get on the bikes. The deluge stops just as we are about to leave and travel a short distance to climb towards the stunning Preah Vihear Temple on Cambodia’s border with Thailand. It’s an incredible place, but unfortunately the reputedly stunning view is totally obscured by dense fog.

The trails that we ride throughout the rest of the day are joyful – long, fast and winding tracks that slice through the beautiful landscape. After nearly a week of watching the European boys stay on the pegs, the Aussies are following suit and feeling the flow. We get to the guesthouse relatively early so there’s time to visit another temple. This time it’s the truly jaw-dropping ruins of the Koh Ker Temple that rises from the flat plain like man-made mountain. Drinking cold Cambodian beer while the sun sets, we are on top of the world.

ROUTE 66 & OUT

The final day beckons and appropriately we are riding Route 66. The trails are nothing like the American namesake, but more fantastic and tight sand tracks cutting through dense undergrowth and across creeks. When the trails open up, it’s more sand and a chance for flat-out, weight-back riding that has us all whooping like gibbons.
We cruise into Siem Reap like returning warriors, battle scarred but victorious as we slice through the mad traffic. We reach the hotel and the sense of achievement is immense – it’s high-fives and man-hugs all-round. The celebrations continue until four in the morning – we don’t want it to be over.
Our journey has been a fantastic mix of stunning scenery, unbelievable trails, great company and flawless organisation. Cambodia is a truly beautiful country and its people have been, warm, welcoming and friendly. If you want an epic motorcycle journey, this place ticks every box.

WANT A PIECE OF THIS?

If you fancy going this tour, it’s an easy process. Ride Expeditions sorts everything out from the moment you arrive in Cambodia, so all you need to book are your flights to Phnom Penh and outbound from Siem Reap. Shop around on the flights, but don’t try to save a few bucks with multiple transfers – it’s no good if you are in Cambodia and your riding kit is in the Philippines! You’ll also need a tourist visa, which can be bought at Phnom Penh Airport for around $40, and dollars are welcomed everywhere.
Other than that, all your transport costs – excursions, breakfast and lunch, refreshments, the whole shebang – is included. The only thing Ride Expeditions’ Toby and Anna won’t cover is your evening meals and beers, so we just split the bill.

In terms of experience, you need to be a relatively confident off-road rider as the trails can get pretty challenging. Ideally, you need to bring your own riding kit, although you can hire it from Ride Expeditions. Aside from Toby, who rides all the tours and is the travelling medic, there’s a lead rider, rear sweeper, and support truck carrying spare bikes. So if it all gets too much, you can always travel in the truck.
As an introduction to adventure motorcycling, it’s a great package. As a holiday – it’s unforgettable!
The Ride Expeditions website has all the details you need.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Julian Challis has been writing articles and features for predominantly motocross titles since 2005. He was most recently deputy Editor at MOTO Magazine before returning to freelance at the start of 2017. He’s ridden since age eight, and his current bikes are two KTM 250EXCs (2001 and 2013), a 2007 Fireblade and a 1995 Yamaha TDM850. He also collects clocks from the 1950s, a passion not shared by Mrs Challis.