The Great Australian Ride

For years I have often thought to myself, “I wonder what’s really out there.” Then that day came. You know the one. The one where you can take no more of your mundane life. Where you question your own value and purpose in the world. When the pain of change is less than the pain of staying the same. For me, it was like a light switch and I could resist no more. Consumed with stories of distant Outback Adventures, my inquisitive nature needed to be satisfied, set free and escape the suburban chaos.

The KTM 990 was a solid choice for the job and so I set about planning and setting up the bike for the trip of a lifetime. During which I was only about 90% positive that I could actually do it. When the time came to tell family and friends there was a certain amount of concern for my well being; this was to be a solo and unassisted charity ride from east to west and back. I approached the Royal Children’s Foundation in Brisbane (now known as Children’s Health Foundation) who were able to help me set up a detailed donation website that meant anyone in the world could donate to the cause via the internet.

Next, the date was set. October 1 would see me watch the sun rise at Cape Byron – Australia’s most easterly point – and ride west through the Simpson and Gibson Desert. I’d end my epic journey across the vast interior of Australia to watch the sun set at Steep Point – the most westerly point.

The lead up to the start was intense. It took me a long time to get everything finalise and to the point where I was confident to set off in the wild rugged country that is Australia. I planned my route carefully to optimise fuel stops, roadhouses, camping, and phone coverage areas. I was now on my own and eager to get off the tarmac and onto the red dust.

Make no mistake; the outback is harsh. The vast remote areas between towns and cattle stations are awe-inspiring. Nothing could of prepared me for what I was about to ride through. Towns such as Windorah, Birdsville, Alice Springs and Laverton are true Oasis after riding hundreds of kilometers in the desert. What amazed me the most was the abundance of wildlife close to any water sources. Thousands of wedge tailed eagles, pelicans, red kangaroos, emus, hogs, cattle, deadly snakes and huge monitor lizards all shared the area around natures liquid gold. It was a hard enough job to keep the bike upright through the thick bull dust let along dodge what ever decided to run across my path. Intense concentration is required 100% of the time on the track and a moment’s lapse would end up with a sure stack. A broken limb or damaged bike out here could be deadly and my only lifeline was my satellite phone. The outback forces you to think survival; there is no other way. October is the end of the dry season where temperatures reach 35 degrees and there is very little shade to shelter in. In the wet season – between November and March – these dried out creek beds become raging rivers impassable to 4WD vehicles. Animal carcasses litter the tracks and if a medical emergence is needed in a remote community the Flying Doctors are called to assist. It’s really does make you think about your own life and what is and isn’t important.

Water, fuel and food are a big issue out here and it’s vital to carry as much as you possibly can. Low Octane Opal fuel is sold in the remote outstation and it’s wise to filter the fuel in case of any sediment.

Crossing vast remote areas is a mind game. The heat is relentless and at times it’s can be difficult to motivate yourself. You have to push doubt and fear from your mind, fix your sight on a distant point and proceed. Riding the Simpson is an extremely rewarding experience. I crossed areas devastated by bush fires where, in the distance, you could see huge smoke plumes filling the skies. Coming to the Queensland/NT border the track was littered with shredded tyres and dead animals. I had to take extreme care and it was slow progress to ensure a safe passage through to Alice Springs.

Riding past Uluru (Ayres Rock) was the halfway marker and a motivating sight for me. When I reached the Tjukaruru track and headed west past the Petermann Ranges onto Docker River, I was spurred on with a surge of confidence. I was consumed by it all. Some 1200km into the Central Aboriginal Reserve, you really do take in the beauty of the country. There’s amazing white ghost gum trees, the orange desert floor and brilliant blue open skies. I’ll never forget it.

After two more days of riding I sighed with relief as I pulled into the mining town of Laverton. The stars were breathtaking, like pin holes in the curtain of night. Totally exhausted, I slept fully dressed in my leathers on the hard floor. The mere thought of blowing the airbed up was just too much.

Skipping ahead to Day 13 and I was making my way towards Mt Magnet, in central west WA. On the trip, I’d near misses with dozens of animals but when a huge Emu came out of nowhere and tried to take me out I nearly laid an egg! If not for the ABS and lightning reflexes I’d be dead. I figured that with a million square miles to play in, the emu must have a few palings loose to run at me. But it’s all part of the adventure.

At this stage in my crossing I was completely focused on the last push to Steep Point, but fate had other plans for me. I pulled into Geraldton at midnight after traveling over 1000km and ended up pitching my tent just north at Coronation Beach, listening to the waves of the Indian Ocean. The next morning no time was wasted and I set off eager; Steep point was so close, I could taste it. Then it happened. Just 12-clicks north of the Billabong Roadhouse I had that sickening gut-wrenching feeling you get when there is something seriously wrong with your bike.

So there I was. Sitting on the side of the road during the hottest part of the day in the most fly infested part of Australia. After much consideration, tinkering and swearing I turned her south and started pushing 220kg in the hot sun. As luck would have it, within 5km a big removal truck pulled up in front of me and offered me a ride back to Perth. I couldn’t believe my luck and thanked them, and the heavens too!

We fueled up in Geraldton, which by now I was getting to know quite well! My driver was yawning with blood shot eyes so I offered to drive the rest of the way to Perth as I had a HR license, and he gladly accepted. Off we went with me at the wheel heading south 400km down to Perth. That’s the beauty of Australian people, there trust and help is truly immeasurable and I owe a lot to those guy.

My time in Perth was short as KTM Australia and KTM Wanneroo responded quickly to the problem and it was fixed under warranty. Thinking about it all now, I figured it was a definite highlight of the adventure as I meet some great people because of it. Along time ago someone said to me, “It’s not what happens to you, it’s how you react to it.” It was a statement that blew me away and I found that afterwards I could deal with life’s little dramas more easily.

Now just to put this into prospective, this slight detour was the entire length of the United Kingdom. Feeling relieved and refreshed I rode north with a vengeance. I was determined to finish this venture, for those who had donated and believed in me I felt a huge obligation to complete my task and I didn’t want to fail them.

The last stretch to Steep Point was undoubtedly the most difficult of the whole journey as huge remote sand dunes covered the peninsular. If there was a time for real doubt to completing this journey it was there. I asked myself a lot of question on that stretch as I rode fully loaded with worn knobies while pushing the limits. But with perseverance and careful map reading the 990 Adventure finally pushed me over the last dune to see the end of Australia. I stopped on the brow, switched off the over-heated engine and enjoyed the sight. The satisfaction I felt at that moment was truly incredible and undoubtedly immeasurable to anything else I’ve ever experienced.

The most outstanding part of this whole experience has been the people of Australia. Everyone I had the pleasure of meeting along this journey has been positive and helpful. For years I felt that the city was draining my soul, that I was becoming an automated mortgage slave, that others around me were losing sight of what this country is really about. Thankfully, my doubts have been squashed. I am proud to say that the true blue Aussie spirit is strong and very much alive.

I believe that our freedom is priceless and I invite other riders to come and join in on the next run, or a section of it, from east to west. There is no cost or fee to ride with me. This is a non-profit cause and all donations raised will go to the Children’s Health Foundation (formally The Royal Children’s Foundation).
For more info outlining requirements, dates and maps please go to my Facebook Page: The Great Australian Ride.

You can also contact me on stuartball37@yahoo.com.au.

Special thanks to

Winaroo KTM Perth
KTM Australia
Foundation Dental
Promotion Products & Randall Smith
Rodger’s Removal services
Race Motorcycles, Alice Springs
AVR Automotive, Brisbane
Sean & Alison Keogh
Family and friends who have supported me in turning this dream into reality, thank you.

Happy travels.
Stuart Ball